Naples - First Interview Today

A great day on the trail of Ancel Keys. Dr. Mario Mancini met David Herlihy (see The Lost Cyclist) and me and took us to several panoramic points, most overlooking the Bay of Napoli. We drove along beautiful hillside streets where traffic laws seem only "suggestions" and Vespas zig-zag throughout the lines of cars and buses without a care. We were surrounded by blue skies, castles, ships of all sizes, the president of the Republic's summer home, the Naples Zoological Station, and beautiful flowers, palms and evergreens. Next stop Dr. Mancini's house, where we met his wife Silvia and learned much about Ancel Keys and the Seven Countries Study.

It may seem elementary to those who knew Keys, but he seems to have had little regard for the influence of genetics on long-term health. He came down solidly on the environmental side, scoffing at Dr. Mancini's query once about "human constitution," which evidently Keys equated with genes, rather than maintaining a more balanced vision of the constitutional program: that is, human genetic endowment + environmental influence = human constitution. We learned many things but this was one of the most interesting to me. Mancini was engaged and engaging. He and his classicist professor wife Silvia are the epitome of gracious hosts. I also learned that MM has a great love of cycling -- owns 9 bikes (three of them tandem). We were simpatico on this account.

In the early afternoon we enjoyed a delightful Mediterranean lunch, complete with prosciutto di Parma, melon, artisanal bread, buffalo mozzarella and white wine. A delicious fruit salad followed -- all on beautiful table linens and china. It was a magnificent treat. We were given instructions on what to see along the Amalfi coast and on Capri (don't think we'll have time for the latter, but we have our list for a quick tour if and when we return). Then it was off to visit the Laboratory of Physiology at the University of Naples, where Ancel Keys began to hatch the idea the Seven Countries Study. It was a lovely 19th-century building with a courtyard and graceful palm trees and sculpted gardens. We saw the window where Keys would sit, wearing fancy Italian shoes, talking about his plans for the SCS. At the Polyclinic where Keys and Paul Dudley White enlisted MM to assist with analysis of patient charts -- they were looking for myocardial infarctions -- we were urged NOT to take photos. I complied. Such a great tour of this city in so little time and with such marvelous and gracious hosts. Feeling very lucky to have learned so much about Ancel Keys, Dr. Mancini, and the Seven Countries Study. Now, onto Pioppi!

In Napoli -- with Captain Leonardo!

Made it to Napoli last night. Found the hotel thanks to a 50-meter yacht captain, Leonardo. Leonardo saw us trying to determine if the Metro really was running at 22:15 pm and assured us that it did. Indeed, he was heading for the Mergellina (harbor area of the city) himself, where the B&B is located. Leonardo made sure that we reached our hotel safely, told us about his boat -- piloted between Naples (summer months) and the Caribbean (winter months). Alerted us to his favorite coffee places in town and the restaurants featuring the finest Neapolitan food. Such hospitality! Today a meeting with Seven Countries Study physician Dr. Mario Manicini and his wife Sylvia. Dr. Mancini was the first of the "Second Generation" of Seven Countries Study investigators and remains an eminent clinician and researcher within cardiology and metabolic studies. More photos to follow, but I open with a view from the bed and breakfast. La bella Napoli!